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St. Andrews, Carnoustie, Turnberry

If King James II of Scotland had had his way, it is likely we wouldn't be playing golf today. In 1457, he banned golf because it interfered with the practice of archery, a skill required in the defense of Scotland. But Mary Queen of Scots fell in love with the game, and later in 1618 her son King James I of England [who then ruled both England and Scotland but was formerly King James VI of Scotland after his mother abdicated the throne], overturned a ban on Sunday golf by permitting townspeople to play after church.

Today, golfers owe a debt of gratitude to the Stuarts for their permissive attitude toward the game. And we also owe much to Scotland itself, where golf is believed to have originated and where its rich heritage lies. Indeed, in many circles it's difficult to discuss Scotland without mentioning golf, for in the Scottish highlands and along its coast are some of the great golf courses of the world where many golf match dramas have been played out.

St. Andrews Old Course

Host to the 2000 British Open the Old Course at St. Andrews is generally recognized as the first golf course, but in fact other more obscure tracks predated it. Yet, St. Andrews is THE shrine, the Cooperstown of golf, and the Mecca where golfers the world over make their pilgrimage. Here six centuries ago, the Scottish nobility walked these fairways on what was a typical sheep farm on the North Sea. Originally composed of 12 holes with some holes being played twice, the number of holes was expanded to eliminate traffic congestion. Today, the essential character has remained the same, and the serious golfer should not pass up a chance to play this veritable holy temple to the game.

As you play the course, you can fairly hear the footsteps of the greats that went before -- Old Tom Morris, for example, the course's first official superintendent who won four British Opens and who was credited with originating the tee box. Then there was his son, "young" Tom Morris, a great champion as well, and the Great Bobby Jones who hated the course when he first played it in 1919. But then he fell in love with it, as did all the great names that followed him.

There are some half dozen double greens on the course, which winds narrowly along the strand, and the "new" course (built 100 years ago). Like all Scottish links, it requires patience and skill to navigate the many fairway bunkers and to avoid the tall, thick heather and other sea grasses that line the fairways. While all the holes require intelligence and ingenuity, hole 17 will capture your imagination as well as your ball if you are not careful. This is the famous road hole, where you must hit your drive over a sign marking the old course hotel. Properly struck, your drive leaves you with a long iron or wood into a tricky green, well bunkered and guarded by a public road. After that, the home hole includes the Valley of Sin, a vast flat track of land in front of the 18th green which is tucked into a corner of the massive greensward that encompasses the 1st tee as well as the 18th fairway.

At St. Andrews it behooves you to play smartly, for chances are your shots will be watched by the many strollers who happen along the road in between the 1st tee and the Gothic building that houses the Royal and Ancient Golf Club, where golf's rules were established.

Carnoustie

North of St. Andrews and also on the North Sea is Carnoustie, a layout of remarkable character and intrigue that many consider to be the finest golf course from a strategic viewpoint in the world. Carnoustie is also fairly flat and the surrounding area is not much to look at; yet when you play it, Carnoustie emerges as a design gem. As Gordon Murray, a former DC area club professional and a Scotsman who now sponsors personal golf tours to the British Isles, explains, "Carnoustie is the only course in the world with 18 perfect holes."

A course with more parkland features than links features, because it sits back some distance from the coast, Carnoustie is quite long -- especially its last five holes, which are widely recognized as the five toughest finishing holes in the world. The course is also punitive, with lots of Scotch broom, heather and whins, cactus-like bushes that vanquish wayward shots, and some of the steepest bunkers you'll see anywhere. And then there is the Barry Burn that winds all through the course, standing ready to capture miscreant balls. For all that, Carnoustie is a must play for would-be golfers in Scotland. It was host to the 1999 British Open, and a large hotel/clubhouse has been built directly behind the 1st tee. As you play this gem, remember the great feet that went before, including Tommy Armour, Ben Hogan, Gary Player and Tom Watson, all of whom subdued it to win the British Open.

Turnberry

Finally, golfers should not leave Scotland without visiting the west coast, where it is slightly warmer than on the North Sea side and where they can play the likes of Royal Troon, Prestwick and Turnberry.

Turnberry comprises a Westin-owned hotel and spa atop a hill overlooking the three Turnberry courses and the sea beyond. The Ailsa Course at Turnberry may be the most beautiful links course in all of Scotland. It offers majestic views of an old castle, the Ailsa Craig -- a huge rock 10 miles out to sea -- and the expansive coastline. On a clear day, you can see Troon from the 10th tee.

Scene of the famous 1977 British Open duel between Watson and Jack Nicklaus, the Ailsa Course was redesigned by famed architect MacKenzie Ross after World War II when it was used as a military base and airstrip. Ross imported huge amounts of soil to create the awe-inspiring heather-covered dunes which define many of the fairways. Of the three courses, I found the Ailsa Course to be the most scenic -- and I wouldn't return to Scotland without again playing the Ailsa Course at Turnberry.

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Alan B. Nichols is a professional golf-travel writer residing in Bethesda, MD.
He is the featured golf-travel writer for GolfLink. Alan appreciates your
comments on his features and the courses he has written about. 
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