Royal Co. Down, Royal Portrush | Portmarnock | Royal Dublin | Druids Glen
The K Club | Rosses Point, Enniscrone, Carne | Connemara | Ballybunion
Lahinch | Galway Bay G&CC | Dooks, Dingle | Ring of Kerry | Waterville
Tralee | Killarney | Old Head | Fota Island | Mt. Juliet | Adare Manor & GC

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Portmarnock: The New and the Old

The New: Portmarnock Hotel and Golf Links

A mere 11 miles north of Dublin near the postcard-pretty seaside village of Malahide is the Portmarnock Hotel and Golf Links, opened in 1995. The property is owned by a group of partners led by IMG's Chairman Mark McCormick and Heinz Company CEO A. J. O'Reilly, who is Ireland's Rupert Murdoch as well as the owner of Waterford Crystal. The modern, charmingly appointed hotel with exceptional service and quality dining lies directly on the Irish Sea next to a wide beach where local residents walk their dogs. All of the 103 modest sized rooms overlook either the sea or golf course which is separated from the beach by a line of sand dunes.

The hotel complex includes the former mansion of the Jameson family, renown for their Irish Whiskey. Occasionally visited by King Edward VII with his paramour, Mrs. Alice Keppel, the mansion has been turned into the Jameson Bar that includes a delightful restaurant. Next to it is the pro shop serving the hotel's course, an attractive links design by Bernhard Langer.

After a relatively flat opening 9, the course weaves through sand dunes and ubiquitous patches of marram grass. An occasional gorse bush and 98 bunkers also ensnare shots on this 6195 meter, par 71 layout that should appeal to the casual player and provide a suitable warm-up for Portmarnock Golf Club. For reservations at Portmarnock Hotel and Golf Links, call + 353 1 846 0611. (From the U.S., enter 011 in place of the + )

The Old: Portmarnock Golf Club
   
A five minute drive south along the coast from the hotel entrance is the road leading into Portmarnock Golf Club, one of the oldest golf clubs in Ireland and what some consider to be Ireland's best links course. Portmarnock has hosted several Irish Opens and the 1991 Walker Cup matches.

Those not used to playing true links golf might well wonder what all the fuss is about. The course has scenic, but not spectacular sea views. The holes are nice enough, but you've certainly seen more dramatic holes elsewhere. But gradually, as you adjust to its subtle and sometimes not so subtle nuances, you realize you are on a golf course that is worthy to be called great.

Superbly conditioned and measuring 6510 yards from the middle tees, this par 71 layout sports all the usual links suspects: deep pot bunkers; narrow, sinuous fairways marked by mounds and uneven lies; and treacherous rough of gnarly fescue and marram that eats your ball like a Venus Flytrap eats insects.

Holes 15 through 17 are among the finest in Ireland. The 205 yard 15th lies directly along the shore, and from the elevated tee box, you take in a deep breath of fresh sea air. This is recommended, since the tee shot must traverse thick rough to a low lying green, surrounded by three pot bunkers and flanked left by a deep recess called the Valley of Sin. Immediately right of the green is thick hedge and marram grass. Factor in the prevailing head winds, and you face a very daunting shot.

From the tee box of the 550 yard 16th, the fairway looks like a mowed path through a thick field. The fairway slopes every which way and is bisected some 350 yards out by a three foot high ridge. The green slopes severely back to front and is well bunkered. The 17th is a straightaway par 4 of brutal length requiring a long iron or wood to a green partially obscured by a right hand bunker and tall grass. After those three holes, the medium length dogleg right par 4 18th offers a bit of rest, though you don't want to go to sleep here either. For tee times, call + 353 846 2968. (From the U.S., enter 011 in place of the + )  

Click on Another Course Below to Continue:

NORTHERN IRELAND
Royal County Down, Royal Portrush

REPUBLIC OF IRELAND
DUBLIN AREA
Portmarnock Hotel & Golf Links and Portmarnock Golf Club
Royal Dublin Golf Club  |  Druids Glen Golf Club
The K Club (Kildare Hotel & Country Club)
NORTH WEST
Rosses Point, Enniscrone, Carne
WEST AND SOUTHWEST
Connemara  |  Galway Bay G&CC  |  Lahinch  |  Ballybunion  |  Tralee
Dooks, Dingle  |  Ring of Kerry  |  Waterville  |  Killarney
Old Head  |  Fota Island  |  Mt. Juliet  |  Adare Manor & GC

Alan B. Nichols is a professional golf-travel writer residing in Bethesda, MD.
He is the featured golf-travel writer for GolfLink. Alan appreciates your
comments on his features and the courses he has written about. 
E-MAIL ALAN NICHOLS

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